Monday, March 9, 2009

Japanese Knife Drills 101

I am undergoing the tutelage of Madam Sadako on further Japanese cooking in addition to the training I had in Japan two months ago. Although two lessons are similar in heart, they are still different in many ways. I start my lessons after work, that around 8:30 in the evening, instead of hot- oiling my hair, I am still chopping daikon. Sadako- san is a highly private woman who entertains like a geisha but cooks like a samurai. Having cooked for many, many years, she had lived in New York and has always been attached to Japanese cooking it already has become her second nature. I adore her. Imagine the Memoirs of a Geisha where the apprentice was being taught, but this time, it is not dancing but cooking.

Doing knife activities has a charm of its own, I don’t know, but I guess this knife lesson with Sadako-san distract me to all other things like… the valuable lessons of a knife and how a woman must love. Over the chopping board, I was told that no matter how your heart is knifed, just take it gracefully, and though tears cling at your eyelashes, just smile and bow. That makes a woman beautiful. A woman should be like a sword sheathed in a beautiful silk- where beauty is woven on the outside, a steel- like character must be kept inside. Sadako- san had said that love is not a feeling, but a will. One day, a dashing samurai on a horseback will come galloping over the hills and I will serve him with matcha. Well at least now I know how to serve and prepare authentic matcha.

So much about chopping board conversations. What can you expect, older woman who had seen life and asks about your love affairs, and a younger one who had just metamorphosed.

-alright, now where are we?

Knife drills.



Koguchi- giri. To cut into slices, a technique commonly used for long and narrow vegetables. To tell you the truth, barbaric as it may sound, but when the asparagus spears are way too narrow and tender, I just wash them thoroughly with baking soda and water but I… I don’t peel them anymore. Unlike carrots and radish, they don’t grow under the ground. When I tried to peel little spears years ago, I ruined the thing.

Ran- giri. To cut in rolling cubes. Also used for long and narrow vegetables.

Hangetsu- giri (to cut into crescents) and wan- giri to cut into round slice like coins. The thickness can vary though according to the dish. All the same, whether it is .5 or 1 cm, it is still termed as wan- giri, unlike French cuts where the name changes at every millimeter difference. The Japanese have this rule to always “cut against the fiber”.

Sasagaki shavings. It is used for shaving long and narrow vegetables, and such shaved vegetables make attractive garnish. To do sasagaki, make several scores about 5 mm lengthways with the tip of the knife. Then shave- cut while you rotate, like sharpening a pencil. The vegetable will end up like a sharpened pencil.


Shikishi- giri. To shape into square. Can be larger than a matignon (1cm x 1 cm x .5cm). Or can pass as matignon.


Julienne, or sen- giri.


Mijin- giri (to mince). Can be a little larger than brunoise by .5 mm. Brunoise.



Katsura- muki. This is my favorite cut. While Morimoto can already make a curtain out of a single daikon, I still take time and enjoy knifing through the flesh of the vegetable, almost quite certain that their structure is made for this type of cut. Insert the knife parallel to the ingredient. Then rotate the daikon towards the edge of the knife while slowly moving the blade.



When sliced further, becomes this. The katsuramuki however can be used to further cut into diagonal or julienne.

Yes, I enjoy this immensely.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Cafe Liegeois... and Why It is Good Luck to Help A Friend

Today is a happy day. Yesterday I passed what is supposed to be one of the toughest ordeals in my cooking career. Not to mention here the details but... you know, if you're smiling like a clam, you want to celebrate it over coffee or nice dessert.

This is a version of the cafe liegeois (leej- wah). Ask a French/ Belgian to pronounce it for you and rest assured he'll give you a better "zshwa". Like that. This is Belgian coffee dessert that is as good as it is easy to prepare. Made with coffee syrup (or espresso), mocha ice ice cream and cream Chantilly (sweetened cream flavored with vanilla), I personally prefer biting into the whole coffee beans on top. I luvit. This made my day yesterday.

Another reason to be happy is I got a new watch over coffee today. There's a story behind it though.

Three days ago, I saw this display of watches (Swatch) and I thought one of them was beautiful and I considered getting one. But then, schooling myself in self control against impulsive buying, I said if it's meant to be mine, then it will be. I went ahead with my day.

Then just this morning I met up with a friend over a morning coffee. I have been working with this fellow (for free) for two years now as I help him go through graduate school, i.e., reports, English translations, etc. Let's say, simply because I enjoy reading his books.

Then before the coffee ended from his pocket out came a watch. A Swiss watch. A Swatch. Much better (and costlier) than the one I would have wanted for myself. And I reckon it could stand the kitchen heat.

If you agree with me that there's such thing as magic, the Force, or whatever you call it, or that you just choose to be lucky... raise your hand and for sure that watch you are wearing also has a story of its own.


And hey, enjoy the coffee!

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Happiness is...

Loving, and never wanting to stop.



... in evening dew
strings of flowers were untied
in this way
thus by chance our destinies
have a reason to exist

- Murasaki Shikibu

Friday, February 27, 2009

A Canadian Dinner - and Onwards

One day one of my staff told me that I had a call from the Canadian Embassy. I said, Wait, what has Canadian Embassy got to do with me? I picked up the phone. It’s true. They confirmed if I received the fax invitation. Again, another fabulous invitation. Honestly, these things aren’t common to me… so, when I read the invitation, I was blushing and happy.


Why, it is requesting the pleasure of the company of … yours truly. RSVP. The menu convinced me not to say no- even at the back of my mind, I didn’t know who to drag and what exactly to do there. Smoked salmon crostini...Pacific King Crab... Angus Porterhouse Steak... indeed, how can you say no!

I went anyway. It was held at the El Circulo Restaurant in Makati, one of the restaurants I admire around the city. What I was thinking? Forget the worries and just enjoy the evening!

At the registration, I saw a familiar name. I said, good, someone’s in here, at least.


Over the cocktails, it turned out that it was Chef Ziggy Segunial who got me to this dinner in the first place. Chef Ziggy was my predecessor, the ex- Executive Chef of our company way before my boss hired me. I only heard about Chef Ziggy from my co- workers, saw his name in the files, read about him in food magazines but I have never met him in person until that evening. Just the same, he only heard about me but we’ve never really met. The chef is a bubbly individual five years my senior who could pass as Morimoto’s son. I swear, the resemblance was so close! Thank you chef!


It was a most fascinating evening. Issues on food product safety were discussed with such depth by the guest speakers, and how Canada contributes to the demand for quality food. With the alarming situation that the country is facing about livestock problems such as disease in swine, and, in my experience, shortage of certain ingredients like scallops, the Canadian government presents great options for food professionals to safeguard the consumer and to continue to turn the wheel of the food industry.


While we were listening, getting passed around were smoked salmon crostini, rounds of wine, Canadian oysters with pancetta- all shipped in from Canada. Chef Ziggy was gasping “F***!” after each bite of the smoked salmon, confessed that he has never tasted anything like it. I thought, a few servings more and this man will levitate.

Anyway, a few shots of dinner-



Spinach salad with House- smoked Scallops in Sherry Vinaigrette. Awesome.


Digging the haricot verts. Succulent, sweet, tastes like a spring morning.


Juicy steak with thyme salt.


Caramelized brioche with maple syrup, ice cream and pecans and blueberries. I can't get over this.



I love dinners like these: where everybody's having a great time.
Then, a showcase of true Canadian products.

Marinades, vinaigrettes...

Authentic maple syrup...


Pacific King Crab, which a while ago, some part went into Chef J's Paella Marinara


Oysters and scallops as large as your fist.


A most generous slab...

Maple- glazed pork and apple toast which was ravaged at the cocktails.
I recognized some respectable food professionals in that event, some writers for food magazines, celebrity chefs, Canadian Embassy Officers, the presidential chefs (the Chefs of the Philippine President) but it was a great pleasure to meet the very gracious Malu Gamboa who has such infectious great energy and the very handsome Chef J who gets the credit for the wonderful dinner. I think we were among the youngest chefs there - I was with the Personal Chefs Manila almost the whole evening and enjoyed immensely the company of Chefs Ziggy, Jonas, Harret, Jean, and the very beautiful Hannah. Food was the muse of the conversation, the penchant for chicharon, eating brown rice with sinigang, baklava with phyllo dough and Chef Ziggy's chocolate dreams. It was a great evening, way beyond words.

*******************************

After dinner, this is my favorite part.

You went back safely to your pad, removed your coat, kicked off those high heels, unbound your hair, and, your head still reeling and on a high and too excited from drinking too much Cabernet and eating oysters , still in your dinner dress …with such passionate intensity by the lamplight , you… you…



- You see what’s inside the package that the host had for you: A cookbook, a directory of local product distributors and, a baby bear with a maple butt! It’s past midnight and you are still poring over your newfound fascination: Canada and its cuisine.

Good evening!

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Bakery Fair 2009

This is one of the things I love most in life: getting fabulous invitations when you least expect them. Gosh, how lucky can I get.
Here's an official invitation to the Bakery Fair, a yearly event organized by the biggest bakery association in the country. Held at the World Trade Center, it is participated by entrepreneurs local and abroad.

Giant donut billboards by Kerry. There was a demo there conducted by these marvelous chefs. They were making macarons and cakes and ice cream. The ice cream machine of Electrolux was 'like a chef itself', according to the chef doing the demo, "It does its own thing, has its own brain..." Imagine that.

The booth of Puratos was the 'most-flanked' booth. They had such fancy pastries and cool pastry cooks.


Breads, breads, breads everywhere.


Clockwise: Pastry chefs of Puratos; take a bite, it's alright :) , the cakes of Kerry.


A tree of macarons. Shmancy- fancy pastries.


Belgian chocolates.

Vegetable noodles made by Taiwanese merchants.

And, hopia!



Saturday, February 21, 2009

Gggrrrecipes by the Numbers...

When you are developing a new restaurant menu and in charge of hundreds plus dishes more at the current one, much is indeed expected of you. Unfortunately, I think my brain capacity is only 1 MB, and therefore I have to cram in a lot of shortcuts.

I am no food genius. I think the accomplishment I can truly be proud of is when, eight years ago, me and a friend played this game at an arcade and the topic was food. Twenty- two years old and just got my first kiss, I didn’t know how I got a 345 points out of a perfect 350. Questions like, a drink that is garnished with an orchid, that dish from a fattened goose… pretty easy, isn’t it?

Just as there are many recipes in the world as in the blog sphere, I am one of these few bloggers who can’t contribute anything more to the civilization of cooking. But here is what I strongly believe in: that cooks must have that innate attentiveness because there’s a lot of hidden maths in the kitchen. For example, when you’re at the REM of sleep, you must still know the conversion formula of Fahrenheit to Celcius and vice versa, and all the other conversions must already be second nature to you. And when your hands are damp in the kitchen and you cant flip through your notes, god, you have to move fast. Your brain too, move it, dammit! This is already an old trick, but it is still very useful to me: Doing the numbers.

The White Sauce Recipe= 2: 2: 2

Any cook would probably guess what each number stands for: 2 T Butter: 2 T Flour: 2 C milk

Bouquet Garni: 4: 3: 6 Name the herbs tied in here and you will know it.

Japanese Rice: 5: 6: 30

French onion soup: 1: ¼ : 1 : 35 – This one includes the cooking time.... and still a number more of other ingredients lined up

California Maki: ½: 100: 1: 1

Curry Sauce: 1: 300


For the Recipe of the Day:

All that my cooks need to do is write the code down on the back of their toques, or, simply pay attention to the numbers:
Bacon and Edamame Pasta In White Sauce

10: 200: 150: 60: 50: 1: 1

I have been making a Recipe Manual these past weeks of over a gazillion entrees and numbers… so, you guessed it, I am too saturated to blog about recipes.

Friday, February 20, 2009

The Theory of Flight...and a Bratwurst Afternoon (2 of 2)

Lunch at the fete was a strip tent of many cuisines…


Hamburgers...

Grilled seafood...

But this one really got me:


Hmmm... are we at the Oktoberfest?



Grilling the bratwurst was some sadomasochist hot chick… See…



Oooopss...! Wrong guess!


How cool can you get, monsieur?! Hahaha!


A bottle of that beer, please.



My lunch :)



Laze away on a French afternoon. The table next to us was occupied by some French nationals. I was catching a few conversations… the s’il vous plaits… de quelle…mon dieu!... maman! zhszhshzhzzzz…. well, I understood- only the laughter.


Time to have fun now. And float away like a butterfly...